Frequently Asked Questions

Pro-Fix 5&10 Rapid Cure


How long does it take to cure?

At room temperature it will be fully cured in 15 minutes.  When temperatures exceed 80 degrees curing time will be reduced and will exceed 15 minutes when temperatures are below 72 degrees.


Can the club be handled before it is cured?

It is recommended that the club is left to dry without moving or touching it.  If the club is moved during the curing process the bond can be reduce by 50% leading to a bond failure during use.


How should I tested to see if the epoxy is fully cured?

After the recommended curing time you can test the epoxy by leaving a small amount in the mixing area.  If the remaining epoxy is hard and cool to the touch the club is ready to be handled. Do Not test the bond by constantly twisting the club to see if it has cured this will only weaken the bond.


Can I add Glass Shafting Beads to 5&10?

Yes. If you have a loose fitting shaft, glass beads will help center the shaft into the club head for consistent performance.  Note: Mix 2%-4% by volume of glass shafting beads with PRO-FIX Epoxy.   DO NOT EXCEED 4% ratio.


How long should you the mix the epoxy?

First you should only dispense enough to bond one club.  Make sure you have prepared all the components before you start the mixing process.  You should mix thoroughly for 30 seconds until it turns a solid off white color.  DO NOT remix or try to bond another club as the epoxy will have already started the curing process and although it may appear usable it will yield a weaker bond.


How do I use the cartridge?

Pro-Fix 5&10 is packaged in a double barreled cartridge. Before you cut the end off to dispense any epoxy turn the cartridge so the tip section is pointing into the air. This will allow any trapped air to rise to the top where the epoxy is dispensed. Remove the black recapping section from the plunger and cut the tip off the cartridge. Then gently push the plunger into the cartridge expelling the trapped air and any epoxy to make sure both sides are equal.  This will ensure you have an equal amount of A and B when you are ready to start the mixing process.  Remember to recap immediately to prevent air re-entering the cartridge.


Why did the bond fail?

Most bond failures are caused by not preparing all the components properly and not following mixing and curing instructions.
1. When re-shafting a club make sure the neck of the club (hosel) is properly cleaned.  Any residue from the old epoxy will leave a surface that will be detrimental to the bond.  Make sure all dust and any other containment’s are removed.
2. Make sure the shaft is properly abraded so that chrome or lacquered tip section of graphite has a rough texture for the epoxy to grab onto.
3. Check to see the depth of the bore is deep enough.  Sometimes you may think you are at bottom of the club but there might be a ¼ “of old epoxy.  You should have a least 1” of shaft entering the club head.
4. When boring out an old shaft, cutting fluid can be used to reduce friction and assist the drill to cut through the shaft.  Make sure you remove all of the cutting fluid from within the hosel or the epoxy bond will be weakened.
5. Make sure you leave the club to dry and cure properly.  We are always in a constant rush to get the customer out the door or go hit our new club.  But you’re not going to be happy when your customer comes back with a head that has flown off or your new club goes tumbling down the fairway.  Give it time to cure.